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As important is what he is not doing! In a sit dogs can't chase cats, knock over furniture, run into the street. Be patient, clear and consistent. It seems it should be obvious - they've done the action with success many times before - but today they are just 'being obstinate'.With a treat or toy, face the dog and place it above his head and slightly behind the forehead, but still visible. To start take advantage of spontaneous behavior.At first the dog will have no idea why you're so happy. Praise and reward anyway, even though you had to 'force' the sit. Pull the leash loop with your foot, sliding it over your leg. - Believe that the dog can associate consequences across time and conditions, then draw the same conclusion you would. They will usually just endure the punishment without learning anything.If the dog backs up do the technique near the couch or a fence where he has nowhere to go.Patience is the number one required quality, therefore. Hold off on food treats until you really need them.Dogs, like humans, much more readily follow those they trust than those they fear.Make the hand gesture, issue the voice command and move a treat or toy from the dog's chin to the ground while pulling gently on the leash. Most times, they are not ignoring the command as much as failing to understand it.After several repetitions try just using a 'waving down' hand movement, palm toward the floor or ground. It's totally counter-productive and won't help anyway. Wait for the response. When you have his attention move the treat slowly back toward the tail.Some dogs likely are what would, in humans, be called obstinate. There are alternate explanations for their behavior. 'Down' is one effective technique for imposing your alpha position.Repetition,

Wikipedia on dog breeds

A wooden bench dog with a hickory spring clamped in a metal vice for display. Note also the steel dog that is integral to the metal vice. A benchdog in use. Notice that the dog can be lowered below the edge of the part being worked to keep clear of the cutting action.

A bench dog is an accessory used on a woodworking workbench to allow clamping of wooden items whilst being worked.

At its most basic a bench dog is simply a peg which is installed in a corresponding dog hole in the top of a bench. The holes are arranged in a line perpendicular to the vice, perhaps three or four inches apart but certainly no further apart than the fully open distance between the vice's jaws.

There is a matching bench dog in the vice so that the woodworker can place a bench dog into a suitable dog hole and clamp a piece of timber between the bench dog in the bench and the bench dog in the vice. It is normal to have two rows of holes, with pairs of holes parallel to the vice so that one has four clamping points.

Benches that have a tail vice and a face vice might have two sets of bench dog holes so that it is possible to clamp in this way from either vice.

Bench dogs may be square or round. Round dog holes are easier to make as they are simply drilled into the bench using a suitably sized bit. However round dogs do not provide the best gripping surface. Some woodworkers use round dogs which have been flattened on one side to avoid this issue.

Square dog holes may be created using a mortiser or by using a chisel in the same way that a mortise is created. However the most common way to make these holes is to cut a series of dadoes in the edge of one of the boards that will make up the benchtop. When the boards are laminated together to form the benchtop, the dadoes form the square holes that are required.

Bench dogs require some form of friction mechanism to prevent them falling through the dog hole when in use. This may be achieved by the installation of a strip of spring steel or wire on the side of the bench dog, or simply by making the bench dog a tight fit in the hole. There are various commercial dogs available which solve this problem in numerous ways.

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